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Recommended Installation Methods of Insulation
Roof insulation rolls are cut to lengths that will cover the distance from eave to eave, leaving a one-foot overhang on each side of the building.
1) Start at the end of the building and temporarily secure one end of the roll by attaching the insulation to the eave strut with double-faced tape.
2) Pull the insulation across the purlins with the vapor barrier toward the building interior. Double-faced tape attached to the opposite end of the insulation will keep tension on the roof roll while the metal panels are being attached over the insulation.
3) Install the next roll in the same manner, making sure the rolls are stretched tight, aligned properly and closely butted.
4) Fasten tabs using one of the methods described on the following page. Any rips or tears must be covered with matching facing tape to ensure a tight vapor seal.
5) Trim excess insulation flush to prevent it from acting as a wick and moving water into the building.
Labels on wall insulation rolls indicate the length as well as the number of pieces that need to be cut from each roll. We recommend that all rolls be cut from a clean location to avoid staining the insulation facing.
1) Cut the dimensions of the insulation from the base angle to eave strut or rake plus 6"-12" extra.
2) Attach one end of the insulation to the base angle using double-faced tape.
3) Pull from the other end to stretch the insulation tightly outside the girts to the eave or rake, and attach with double-faced tape.
4) Make sure the facing is toward the interior of the building and attach the panel to the structure.
5) Install the next roll in the same manner, with edges butted snugly. Then fasten the tabs using one of the methods described.
Your geographic area will, to a great extent, influence the type of insulation that will provide the best performance. If you live in a mild climate and your building is used for farm equipment storage, insulation may not be necessary. If you are planning to have employees working in a building, you should probably install insulation, particularly in areas where temperatures are extreme. Energy savings will quickly pay for insulation if the building will be climate controlled.
The condensation process occurs when warmer moist air comes in contact with cold surfaces such as framing members, windows and other thermally conductive accessories, or the colder region within the insulation itself (if moisture has penetrated the vapor retarder). Warm air, having the ability to contain more moisture than cold air, loses that ability when it comes in contact with cooler surfaces or regions. When this happens, excessive moisture in the air is released in the form of condensation. If this moisture collects in the insulation, the insulating value is decreased.
In dealing with condensation, air may be considered to be a mixture of two gases-dry air and water vapor. One thousand cubic feet of air at 75°F can hold up to 1.4 pints of water. At 45°F, it can hold only 0.5 pints.
Relative Humidity is a percentage measurement of the amount of water vapor present in the air in relation to the amount it is capable of holding at that temperature. Therefore, 50% Relative Humidity would mean that the air is carrying only one-half of the total amount of moisture that it could be holding at that particular temperature. Cold outside air is usually much drier than warm inside air. Therefore, you can lower the Relative Humidity by bringing in outside air to mix with and dilute the moist inside air. At 100% Relative Humidity, the air is "saturated."
The temperature at which the air is saturated and can no longer hold additional moisture is called the dew point temperature. Whenever air temperature drops below its dew point, excess moisture will be released in the form of condensation. Condensation problems are most likely to occur in climates where temperatures frequently dip to 35°F or colder over an extended period of time.
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